Where to start….I waited too long to blog so now my mind is
full of ideas.
This particular topic has been on my mind for the past few
days though. As E and I continue through our journey of the business of
photography, we learn a lesson with each and every shoot. Being the
perfectionists we are, we realize that we have a long ways to go to become as
great as the famous photographers we follow.
Money is tight, and as much as we’d like to charge as much as joe-photog
down the road, in the professional photography business you have to pay to
play. And I mean both monetarily and pay your “dues”. So for the love of our
craft, and the continued search for “the” image, we
continue to reach out to our creative community for collaborations. Once we feel our portfolio is strong enough,
and hopefully busy, our collab shoots will dwindle down to a select few.
Don’t get me wrong, I love networking. It’s absolutely
required if you want to grow as a photographer. What I wouldn’t give to have
this amazing Rolodex of contacts. But who has time? It’s so difficult,
especially when you cannot delegate duties to others. Networking forces you
meet ALL different types of people. It’s a learning curve to know how to
navigate effectively when you’re trying to put together a group of people for a
shoot. Especially tests and collaborations, because money does not exchange
hands – it’s all about portfolio, creativity and the love of your craft.
Throughout the process of trying to find your team (and keep it together) you
go through many emotions from excitement, to frustration, to panic, acceptance,
back to excitement and so on and so forth. Depending on my needs I’ve had to learn when
to push people and keep on them, and when to let them go.
This whole subject can be broken down into many different
topics, but the one I wanted to concentrate on is for new models. So
I’ve created a little list of tips to help models brand NEW to the industry, to
help them work more effectively to build their portfolio and their networking
circle. I’m not a modeling agency, and I’m sure there’s a lot more that goes
with working towards becoming a world-famous model – but this is coming from a
perspective of a photographer and editor who has worked with many newbie
models, and what makes MY job easier (therefore making me happier and more
likely to think of you for future shoots, especially paid ones), makes your
images come out better, and making you more highly recommended. My aim is more toward those who are still in the collaboration and test-shoot stage of their modeling career, but want to grow and learn more about the business. There are a
million guides out there on how to become a model (thanks America’s Next Top
Model), I even read a book from Jennifer Nicole Lee a famous fitness model, and
I thought she gave great tips. I’ve also started reading Kelly Killoren Bensimon’s book about The SupermodelDiet. So, like I said, LOTS of resources out there.
So this brings me to my first recommendation:
So this brings me to my first recommendation:
1)
Do your research on your industry and your
craft. As you can see from above there are books out there, and lots of
information on the internet. Modeling is about so much more than just showing
up. It’s about your work ethic, your attitude, your ambition, and your
know-how. In a shoot everyone is working, including the model. Look at magazines,
books, blogs, and anything you can find that relates to modeling. Study the
images that publishers decide to use. Practice in the mirror and learn your
good angles and faces. Know the difference between all the different types of
photography, so when a photographer contacts you about a specific concept you
know what they are talking about, and whether you would be a good fit. Always
be open to advice and any tidbits of information that other may feed you, work
experience brings new perspectives so learn from them! Ask questions. Research the
subject/genre of your next shoot to give you fresh perspective. The more you
know the more confident you feel, and the more intelligent you sound to your
peers. I love having a conversation with models about what they know, what
they’ve learned, etc.
2)
Be professional. You’re brand new to the
industry, first impression is everything. Respond to emails and texts ASAP. Don’t
make people wait 24-48 hours for your every response, or fall off the map after
having a back-and-forth conversation with the coordinator. Be sweet, open,
excited for the opportunity, and as flexible as possible. If this is not your
natural personality – work on it. You won’t make it very far without it. Within
the first few emails I can usually tell the type of person I’m working with. A
lack of communication, and those that reschedule consistently or at the last
minute, makes me believe that they are not taking the situation seriously or as
a priority. I take it seriously and I want the people I work with to do the
same. If those models don’t eventually
fall off (I willingly let them), and we actually do the shoot, we will more
than likely NEVER contact them again nor recommend them. The only girls I’ve
seen get away with flaky-ness even a LITTLE bit are those that are lucky enough
to be pretty and translate well on camera and still be willing to collab. But
even those girls don’t make it very far – too much competition in the big
leagues to deal with models like that! And I’d hesitate to put them on a paid
gig for fear that they would be the same way.
Make a physical portfolio and tearsheets as soon as possible. Whether it’s an actual printed portfolio or on your iPad – have all your work with you. We photographers love to see what experience you have, and see what we think are your best angles and strengths so we can plan the shoot.
Make a physical portfolio and tearsheets as soon as possible. Whether it’s an actual printed portfolio or on your iPad – have all your work with you. We photographers love to see what experience you have, and see what we think are your best angles and strengths so we can plan the shoot.
3)
Know fashion. This is a given especially if you
want to be a high fashion or editorial model. Maintain a good wardrobe. I don’t
care if you shop at Marshall’s for your clothing – you can still be fashionable
on a shoestring budget. If you have your ‘own style’ that’s fine, and most
photographers love that, but sometimes on jobs they will want you to look up-to-date
with current fashions. Know it. As a brand-new model working on collabs there
will not always be a fashion designer or a wardrobe specialist at the shoot,
and you will have to bring the clothes. Be amazing. Showing up in ratty jeans
and a t-shirt gives a bad impression. Bringing ratty jeans and a t-shirts for
the shoot is even worse. If a shirt is worn and old, it looks worn and old on
camera too. ALWAYS ask your photographer
about wardrobe, and if you need to bring your own clothing. Have these items
with you because you never know (even if there is someone taking care of
clothing); different color bras including strapless, different color
layer-tanks, strapless and one-shoulder shirts (neutral colors and black/white
are all best for emergencies), a good pair of skinny jeans and leggings, and a
couple cute pairs of shoes. If you bring
a cute outfit the photographer will probably be open to taking some shots of
you in it if there’s time. Always bring makeup for touch-ups just-in-case, and
few things for your hair. Knowing how to do your own makeup doesn’t hurt either,
sometimes there’s no MUA on set, or they don’t show – so learn the basics at
least!
4)
Hygiene is everything. I hate that I have to say
this, but unfortunately I do. Not saying I ever really worked with a stinky
model, but there are some that have showed up almost as though the shoot was an
afterthought. They have a 24 hour shadow under their arms and legs and it looks
like they stayed up late the night before. Show up polished! If you read up on
how to become a model, they always talk about taking care of yourself. Beauty
is everything (hello, model??!). I don’t
care how skinny or cute you are, you show up with hairy armpits I think you are
so ignorant I cannot stand it. You wouldn’t believe the things I say when I’m
trying to edit hairy armpits. Homework assignment – learn everything beauty.
Hair, skin, nails, lips, eyes, diet, etc. etc.
Easier said than done, but for the love of God get a good night’s sleep before
a shoot! If you want this you have to be professional. Lotions, face wash, waxes/hair removal, nail
care, hydration, exercise and diet, and so on and so forth – get your freakin PhD
in it. You glow in person, you will glow on camera. The less work the
photog/editor has to do on you the more they love you. Bring out your inner
diva and always be ready to shoot.
5)
Be a team player. As time goes on there’s
nothing more annoying than doing all the work yourself. Team players make me
happy, and help me with the burden. Unfortunately, newer models seem to be
allergic to having to work for a shoot. They seem to believe that they just get
to show up on set and be pretty like they’re the next Tyra Banks and say
‘thanks see you later!’ Tyra Banks can do that….YOU cannot. Now – don’t get me
wrong, there are SOME situations where all a photog wants is for a model to
show up and be pretty – they have THEIR concept and have complete control. But
in collaborations where everyone is just trying to network, create a concept
and bring it all together – teamwork makes the process so much easier and so
much more successful. Not every shoot is going to have a set manager or
coordinator, so the burden is usually left to whoever came up with the concept
to put it all together. It would be refreshing for once to bring someone on the
team (who expressed interest in working on it) to say, ‘what can I do to
help?’ All I get is ‘when do I need to be there?’ I know you have a life, but
hello, so do I. If you want it too, let’s make it happen. Even when I ask in a
group email for those to bring ideas/props/location ideas/etc I mostly get, “I
don’t have any ideas, or I don’t know.” Lame. Who knows with multiple heads put
together, all our contacts, etc what we could have access to and come up with!
People with cool houses, land, pets, farms, stores, etc – know them and keep
their number handy!
6)
On that note…network network network. Get
business cards (yes make your own business cards) and keep them somewhere. Keep
numbers and emails. Photographers and their assistants, MUA’s, hair stylists,
coordinators and anyone else whose info you can get your hands on (florists,
crafters, bakers, seamstresses…the list goes on and on…). Don’t be shy. Keep in
touch. Knowing people makes your life so
much easier in so many ways. You can also become the go-to person for contacts,
making you an asset to those you know! Be friends with other models too, word
of mouth is the most powerful form of advertising and marketing. Be on all the social media networks.
7)
Keep your port fresh, and ask opinions on your
photos. Opinions can vary, but ask people who know the industry, or who know
beauty or advertising. Asking your friends and your mother is not a
professional opinion. Not even other models, unless they’ve been in the
business for a good while and are successful themselves. First, your friends and mother will love
almost everything because it’s you, and also because they don’t know the
difference between a pretty picture and what your portfolio needs. Your
portfolio needs to reflect YOU and who you are, your diversity, abilities, and
what type of jobs you want. As a newer model there are not a whole lot of
photographers willing to pay you unless maybe you have an amazing look they
absolutely must have. Some girls are lucky – others have to work harder. So you
will have to do a lot of test shoots and collaborations. Which is not
necessarily a bad thing – it gives you a chance to try different genres of
modeling and see what you excel at. Just because you have NO photos doesn’t
mean you have to go with the first photographer that comes your way. Check the
photographer’s portfolio…carefully! When I look through model portfolios that
have terrible pictures it makes it harder for me to decide whether I want to
work with them. If you’re just helping a new photog friend and you’re modeling
for him/her that’s understandable – but it doesn’t necessarily mean you need to
put the terrible images in your modeling port. It’s better for you, at the very
minimum, to have someone take some headshots of you against a white wall with
your hair nice and little makeup to cover blemishes and mascara. Then a body
shot the same way. Or, the best thing for you would be to hire a professional
whose work you really admire. Work with someone who can give you the basics
plus a little extra to show some of your diversity, and they at least ‘touch
up’ your final images. If they can give you the digitals for your website, plus
prints or permission to print at least up to 8x10 prints that’s a great start.
And I have to say this too – just because you’ve done a few runways and a handful of photoshoots does NOT make you ‘experienced’ and a ‘for pay only’ model. You would have to have an absolutely amazing look and port to claim you want to be pay only – and if that’s the case then I would hope you are signed by an agency. Sometimes when I’m searching for models I’m amazed at the horrendous portfolios and they claim they want to be paid only. Do I think models should not be paid? Absolutely they should be paid – if they’re worth it. But just like anyone else in the industry you have to prove yourself with your port and network with the community. We want to be inspired by you. I cannot wait for the day that I will be able to pay models to do shoots for me, but when I pay, the model’s port is going to be amazing – and you my dear, do NOT have an amazing port. Keep it moving.
This does not apply to the models that show their cha-cha’s and other interiors in shoots – that’s a different type of ‘art’. I'm talking nudes, not implied. I think they should be paid every time. Otherwise the goodies should stay in the jar. Just my personal opinion.
And I have to say this too – just because you’ve done a few runways and a handful of photoshoots does NOT make you ‘experienced’ and a ‘for pay only’ model. You would have to have an absolutely amazing look and port to claim you want to be pay only – and if that’s the case then I would hope you are signed by an agency. Sometimes when I’m searching for models I’m amazed at the horrendous portfolios and they claim they want to be paid only. Do I think models should not be paid? Absolutely they should be paid – if they’re worth it. But just like anyone else in the industry you have to prove yourself with your port and network with the community. We want to be inspired by you. I cannot wait for the day that I will be able to pay models to do shoots for me, but when I pay, the model’s port is going to be amazing – and you my dear, do NOT have an amazing port. Keep it moving.
This does not apply to the models that show their cha-cha’s and other interiors in shoots – that’s a different type of ‘art’. I'm talking nudes, not implied. I think they should be paid every time. Otherwise the goodies should stay in the jar. Just my personal opinion.
8)
Love on your photoshoot team!! Not your
personality? Get over it. Everyone loves to be loved. Many thank-you’s should
be given out, hugs, excitement, social media shoutouts and most importantly
FEEDBACK. Be humble. Don’t leave the shoot and just disappear into thin air,
and when your photos are posted just retweet, or re-post on FB without a word.
Not only is this disheartening to the photographer, it shows you have no class
or interest in being a real model. It was a ‘thank you for the free hair/makeup
and pictures’ and bye-bye. It’s a deal-breaker. The more shout-outs you give
people, the more soft they become towards you. Trust me. I think you can take
this concept above and beyond just the modeling world and place it in your
everyday life.
I think this is a good starting point. Let's leave dreamland and do some real work! :)
